So the story goes, a professor at the University of Arizona was hired to study the environment in the Sonoita-Elgin area. He found that the climate and terroir (that's a fancy French word for dirt) was similar to some of the wine making regions in Europe. With that, the seeds were planted -- literally and figuratively -- and the wine business began to grow in Southern Arizona. Today there are 10 wineries in and around Sonoita and Elgin. I visited six of them.
My first stop was the Dos Cabezas WineWorks, which may be one of the most well known wineries in Arizona. Its primary operation is east of Wilcox, but has a cozy tasting room in the town of Sonoita and a small vineyard nearby. At the tasting room I bellied up to the bar and was presented with a wide variety of reds and whites, among them several award winning wines. I won't bore you with tasting notes -- "aromas of blackberry, earth and oak spice with a long chewy finish, blah, blah, blah" -- I don't have any. My motto: if you like the wine drink it. At Dos Cabezas, I liked every one but was able to narrow my selection and chose a few fine souvenirs. The score: Tasted nine wines and purchased two.
Just off a dirt road, tucked behind rows of grapes, is the Wilhelm Family Vineyards. It's tasting room is much different than Dos Cabesas'. It's more like your neighbor's kitchen. I was first greeted by a fluffy orange cat napping at the front door, then by a lively group of people seated around a kitchen counter, eating popcorn and drinking wine. The hostess of this party was the winemaker herself, Karyl Wilhelm. It's a casual environment that may not appeal to fine wine connoisseur, but is perfect for neauveau winos. The wines are also quite unique, with a few special dessert wines with hints of fruit, coffee and chocolate. If you buy a bottle, Karyl will even autograph it for you. The score: Tasted five wines and purchased two.
Along the Elgin Road is Callaghan Vineyards, where you will find Kent Callaghan pouring wine at the vineyard his parents started in the early 1990s. With nearly 20 years of practice, I can assure you he knows his stuff and makes some tasty wine. Callaghan's had a great selection of reds, mostly blends, which are among my favorites. Why enjoy one grape when you can enjoy three or four in perfect harmony? But don't discount their whites. Ann's, a blend of Grenache Blanc, Verdelho and Symphony grapes was among my favorites, with its fruit flavor and aroma and limited oak influence. The score: Tasted nine wines and purchased three.
Next door to Callaghan's is Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery. Joan and Tim, and one of the Canelo Hills dogs, were greeting visitors and pouring wine. Joan stays at the vineyard, while Tim is only there on weekends. Monday through Friday he's a full-time psychiatrist in Tucson, which may explain his weekend passion for making wine. The atmosphere in their tasting room is quiet and relaxed, allowing you to savor your glass and enjoy each taste. Canelo Hills offered a Riesling that was dry, when compared to the traditional sweet wines of Germany, and more suited to my taste. The score: Tasted five wines and purchased one.
Sonoita Vineyards came recommended to me by a guest at my hotel. Located on rolling, grass covered hills, you can almost imaging the Caballeros who rode through these fields a century ago. Today they would be surprised to find rows of grapes where their cattle once grazed, along with a large tasting room, gift shop and winery, producing premium wines of all varieties. For my taste, I found most were sweet rather than dry, but all were quite good. The gift shop is also a great place to find wine accessories, apparel and unique souvenirs. The score: Tasted nine wines and purchased one.
Last, but not least, I stopped at Lightening Ridge Cellars, a Tuscan-themed winery. One of the newer wineries in the area, it's old world style is being well received. When I arrived the tasting room was packed. It was hard to find a spot at the bar. Once I did, I was pleased to find full-flavored wines made from classical Italian grapes. The Montepuciano was my favorite. All that was lacking was a big bowl of Pasta Bolognese to enjoy it with. The score: Tasted five wines and purchased one.
To wine snobs everywhere, you can have Napa and Sonoma and the wine producing regions of France. I'll take a glass of Arizona wine, anytime. Next time you should give it a try, too.
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